Hix Island House: A Brutalist Retreat into Vieques’ stillness
Reaching Vieques, Puerto Rico requires a bit of intention, and it’s precisely what makes it so special. Most travelers fly into San Juan and then catch a short 30-minute flight to this island sanctuary. I opted for the more adventurous (and cheaper) solution by embarking on a breathtaking one-hour ferry ride from Ceiba on Puerto Rico's eastern coast.
Despite being just seven miles off the mainland, Vieques feels worlds away from the bustle of San Juan, and a more authentic and unhurried version of the main island.
Vieques offers what increasingly feels rare in the Caribbean: unspoiled beaches without high-rise hotels, the largest natural wildlife refuge in the Caribbean, and Mosquito Bay, one of the brightest and magical bioluminescent area in the world.
On a quiet hillside about 15mn away from the ferry terminal, can be found a place where time slows down, and nature takes center stage. During a trip to the archipelago with friends, I needed to take a break from our fun but busy journey. After a short detour by the colonial town of Ponce and the protected Reserve of Guanica on the main island, I landed at a blend of raw architectural beauty, untouched wilderness, and a profound sense of quiet.
Designed by celebrated architect John Hix, the Hix Island House is a sustainability masterpiece with a striking brutalist architecture incorporating principles of Wabi-Sabi design. The brutalist property consists of several modernist buildings designed to maximize natural light, air circulation, and connection to the outdoors. Its rough and simplistic unfinished look allow to show off the power of raw concrete that juxtaposes nicely with warm accents like wood, brass, metal, and neutral colors.
The accommodations are intentionally minimal and simple, with no air conditioning or traditional luxuries. The rooms are surprisingly spacious and open to breathtaking views of the lush greenery and distant ocean.
The Epitome Definition of Retreat
Staying at Hix Island House offers a restorative silence so different from what you might find in a typical secluded hotel: it does not try to prove anything, it's deeper and profoundly transpires through the location and the identity of the land itself. It's the rustle of leaves in the breeze, the distant call of birds, and the occasional patter of rain on concrete. It's a quiet that asks nothing of you but to simply be, appreciate what is offered to you, and that gives so much in return.
The unpolished buildings are thoughtfully spaced across the property, creating a strong sense of privacy. You feel as though you have the place to yourself, as most guests seem to respect the overall tranquility of the site. You can wander the wild gardens from your room, while stretches of pristine sand and crystal-clear water are just a short drive away. The design of the property encourages you to be part of the natural environment, not removed from it.
Hix Island House is a refreshing alternative that can also be the theater of surprises: one morning, I got awakened by an unexpected guest: a wild horse that had wandered - not so quietly - into our room before gracefully disappearing into the nearby bushes, leaving me wide-eyed at the surreal and amusing encounter. A gentle reminder that we are guests in nature's space, not the other way around.
Hix Island House
Address: Route 995, km 1.5, Vieques, 00765, Puerto Rico
Website: http://hixislandhouse.com
Instagram: @hixislandhouse